Sewalongs, by Colette Patterns

Hawthorn Version 1, Short Sleeve

IMG_1557 copy

Today I am going to add the Version 1 Short Sleeve to my dress. Normally, I am more of a sleeveless kinda gal, but when I picked out my seersucker I got really excited about the bias cut short sleeve cuff and I decided I’d mix and match. Follow along if you’re making short sleeves on your Hawthorn!

Note: If my short sleeve looks extra short, it is because I cut 1.5″ off.

Day 8 Checklist:

  • Assemble the Sleeve
  • Stitch Cuff to Sleeve
  • Set the Sleeves

Assemble the Sleeve

1. On each short sleeve (L), sew three rows of ease stitches between small circles. To do this, set your machine to a long stitch length of 4 – 4.5mm. Stitch one row of ease stitches between circles with a 5/8” allowance. Sew a second row just inside of this row, with a 1/2” seam allowance. Sew a third row with a 3/4” seam allowance. Leave long thread tails.

IMG_1524

2. On each short sleeve (L), with right sides together, stitch underarm seams.

IMG_1526

3. Finish seams and press open.

IMG_1529

Stitch Cuff to Sleeve

1. Fold the cuff in half with right sides together. Stitch the cuff together at the side seam.

IMG_1530

2. Press the seam open.

IMG_1531

3. On each short sleeve (L), stitch the short sleeve cuff (M) to the sleeve hem. To do this stitch along the bottom edge at 1/4” with the right side of the cuff facing the wrong side of the sleeve.

IMG_1533

IMG_1537

4. Turn to the right side of the sleeve, and press the seam allowance up towards the sleeve.

IMG_1538

5. Press the bottom edge of the cuff under 1/4” towards the wrong side of the cuff and the right side of the sleeve.

IMG_1539

6. Press the cuff up towards the right side of the sleeve. The seamline where the cuff and sleeve meet should be along the hem. Pin in place.

IMG_1541

IMG_1540

7. Edgestitch along the top fold of the cuff.

IMG_1542IMG_1545

Set the Sleeves

1. Pull the bobbin threads of your ease stitches.

IMG_1546

Definition of Easing: Easing means adjusting the length of an edge so that it can be sewn to a shorter edge. It’s similar to gathering, but you are pulling up less fabric. Whereas the little folds of gathers are easy to see, an eased seam should ideally have no tiny folds or puckers once pressed.

2. With right sides together, insert the short sleeve (L) into the armhole, matching notches and seams.

3. Pin into place, adjusting ease stitches to fit by pulling thread tails. Align the large circle at the sleeve cap with the shoulder seam. Make sure to insert pins from the sleeve side.

Tip: I like to pin through the side seam and work my pins around clockwise. You’ll then sew counterclockwise, removing the pins at you approach.

IMG_1551

4. Hand or machine baste the sleeve into the armhole, stitching with the sleeve side on top. This will allow you to watch the easing and make sure no large folds or puckers form as you stitch.

IMG_1552

5. Once basted, permanently stitch the sleeve into the armhole. Remove basting.

6. Finish the armhole seam, clipping the inner curves of the underarm seam allowance.

IMG_1555

7. Turn the sleeve right side out and press the seam toward the sleeve.

IMG_1559

8. Repeat for the second sleeve.

If you're new here, you might want to subscribe to our sewalongs via email so you don’t miss anything! And sign up for our weekly Snippets email for even more sewing tips and tricks.

The Hawthorn Sewalong

  1. Announcing the Hawthorn Sewalong & Contest (53 Comments)
  2. Full and Small Bust Adjustments (46 Comments)
  3. FBA Bonus: Splitting the Dart (11 Comments)
  4. Wide or Narrow Shoulder Adjustment (37 Comments)
  5. Fitting the cuffs (12 Comments)
  6. Interfacing, Staystitching, Darts, and Shoulders (22 Comments)
  7. Collar, Facing, and Side Seams (13 Comments)
  8. Attaching the Skirt or Peplum (10 Comments)
  9. Hawthorn Version 1, Short Sleeve (8 Comments)
  10. Hawthorn Version 2, 3/4 Length Sleeve (18 Comments)
  11. Hawthorn Version 3, Armhole (12 Comments)
  12. Closures, Hem, and Finishing (11 Comments)
  13. Hawthorn Parade: Vote for your favorites! (36 Comments)
  14. Hawthorn Parade Part Two: Vote for your favorites! (29 Comments)
  15. Hawthorn Contest Winners! (15 Comments)

Comments

Never knew that was the definition of easing. Thanks!

sewintheforest

Flat felled or French seams? Could I sew the sleeve to the armhole successfully using a flat felled seam (or French seam) without making any modifications to the sleeve pattern? If there is too much ease for this to work well, how much would you suggest shaving off (and where) to making these seam finishes work? Thanks!

You’ll just want to sew it flat, like Negroni. Then you may want to lower the sleeve cap so it is less rounded, or try removing some ease from the center for the sleeve. We have not tried this ourselves, so you will want to experiment with scrap fabric.

I have completed this step and it’s looking beautiful! Thanks, Rachel, for such great instructions! I guess it’s buttons next, and I am honestly scared of making a choice because they can so alter the look of the dress. Any thoughts on buttons/a good supplier?
Thanks again, this has been so fun and so instructive for me!!!
Ledys

I am the same way about buttons! In fact, I traveled an hour by bus yesterday to get to Fabric Depot for their button selection. Then I spent a good 20 minutes looking at them all! You can also find some great buttons at vintage stores or on Etsy.

Can’t wait to see what you picked! :-) I love the fresh look of your gorgeous seersucker dress and I am so looking forward to seeing it finished. This has been so much fun!
Ledys

mary

Great photography and detailed descriptions as usual. Love the fabric too. About buttons, I get some great ones from http://www.organiccottonplus.com and they are eco friendly too!

What a neat company, thanks for sharing!

Your comments