In this post we’ll be going over attaching the sleeves and finishing the neckline for Moneta Versions 2 and 3.
Attach the sleeves
1) Pin the sleeves. With right sides together, align the circle mark at the top of the sleeve cap with the shoulder seam of the bodice. Pin. (If you haven’t attached sleeves before, it might look weird because when everything is flat, the curved edges of the sleeve and the armhole are going in opposite directions. That’s ok.)
Align the single notch on the sleeve with the single notch on the bodice. Pin.
Align the double notch on the sleeve with the double notch on the bodice. Pin.
Pin the rest of the sleeve edge to the bodice, lining up the raw edges. You may need to gently stretch the armhole edge to match the sleeve edge (this is called easing). Use lots of pins!
2) Attach the sleeves. Stitch along the sleeve cap edge, making sure the raw edges stay aligned as you go.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 for to attach the other sleeve.
3) Pin the side seams. With right sides together, line up the raw edges of the bodice and sleeves, aligning the underarm seams. Pin.
4) Sew the side seams. Stitch the entire side seam at once, starting at the waist edge and going past the underarm seam all the way to the end of the sleeve.
Repeat for other side seam.
5) Hem the sleeves. Finish the raw edges of the sleeves. Turn them 1” towards the wrong side and pin.
From the right side, stitch hem down using your twin needle. If your sleeve is too small to fit over the free arm of your machine, you’ll have to sew on the inside of the opening like this:
6) Hem the neckline. Finish the raw edge of the neckline. Turn 3/8” to the wrong side and pin.
From the right side, stitch down using your twin needle.
Alternatively, you can use a coverstitch machine or the hemming technique of your choice.
If you’re having trouble with the twin needle, below are a few troubleshooting tips/reminders. You can also check out the twin needle tutorial on The Coletterie.
Check your settings. Double and triple check that your machine is set on a straight stitch and that the needle position is centered before you start sewing. I always hand crank through one stitch first to make sure I’m not going to break the needle.
Loosen the tension. If the two rows of stitches are making a prominent ridge in the fabric, try loosening your upper thread tension by one number. This might also help the bobbin thread form a zig zag instead of a straight line. (Depending on your machine you may or may not need to do this.)
Thread correctly. When you thread the two upper threads, make sure one goes to either side of the narrow plate between your tension discs. On my machine this is what makes the difference of a zigzagging or straight bobbin thread.
Save on thread. If you don’t want to buy an extra spool of thread just for the hems, just wind an extra bobbin and use that in place of a second spool.
That will do it for today! As tempting as it is, I’d recommend resisting the urge to try on your bodice, as you may irreversibly overstretch the bottom edge.
See you back on Friday to get started on the skirt!