Today we will cover how to execute a full tummy adjustment on Sorbetto and how to raise or lower the darts.
FULL TUMMY ADJUSTMENT
If your muslin offers a good fit in the back, but the front feels tight in the abdomen, you need a full tummy adjustment. Note that if your Sorbetto is tight overall—from the midsection down, and not just the front—you may want to consider blending sizes instead.
A fuller tummy requires two things: additional room in the midsection as well as a little extra length. This adjustment is super easy and will help you achieve a better fit.
1) Using a pencil and a clear ruler, draw the stitch line at the side seam, below the bust dart.
2) Below the bust dart, draw a line that is perpendicular to the grainline. The line starts at the side seam and ends midway between the side seam and center front. This is line A.
3) Draw a second line, parallel to the grainline, from the hem, intersecting with line A. This is line B.
4) Using paper shears, cut along line B, starting at the hem. Pivot at the intersection, cutting along line A and stopping at the stitch line. Snip through the seam allowance at line A, leaving a small paper hinge.
5) On a separate piece of paper draw two parallel lines. The distance between these two lines should be half the amount you wish to increase the abdomen by.
6) Place your pattern on top of your guidelines, pivoting the pattern. Tape the center portion of line B to the guideline. Pivot the pattern until the lengthen shorten line aligns with the opposite guideline.
7) Use the lengthen/shorten line to lengthen the center front to align with the side front of your Sorbetto.
Raising and lowering a dart
1) On your pattern piece, mark the existing apex. On Sorbetto your existing apex will be 1 1/2” away from the dart apex.
2) Mark your bust apex. This can be determined by sewing a muslin, or by simply holding your front bodice piece over your body.
3) Measure the current apex in relation to the desired apex. In this example, we are lowering the dart by 1”.
4) Using a ruler, draw a box around your dart. The vertical side of the rectangle should touch the dart apex and be parallel to the grainline.
5) Cut along the drawn lines. You can now move your dart up or down to raise or lower it.
6) Tape the dart in place, using pattern paper to fill the gap in your pattern.
7) Redraw the side seam.
Finally, it will be time to move forward with garment construction! On Monday, Katie will cover cutting and prepping your Sorbetto.