Today, we’ll start out slowly with the process of creating the waistband for the Mabel.
No mattern which version you’re sewing, the waistband will be created in the same way. This should take you only about 15 minutes.
Trim the lining
1) Trim the lining. First, trim 1/8″ from the top edge of each of the waistband front (A) and waistband back (B) lining pieces. Trimming this accounts for the turn of cloth and helps the shell roll to the inside.
“Turn of cloth” is a term that refers to the fabric that’s taken up when a fabric is turned to the inside or outside of a garment. Generally, you want a lining to be slightly smaller than the outer fabric, so that it rolls to the inside and is less visible.
Sew a test seam
1) Sew a test seam. Before you start stitching, take two pieces of scrap fabric and sew a test seam. Check for any adjustments you need to make to your tension. For a complete reference on troubleshooting tension issues, see The Colette Guide to Sewing Knits.
2) Test for stretch. Pull on your test seam to check for strength. Make sure your stitches do not pop. If they do, your tension may be too tight.
Sew side seams of waistband and lining
1) Stitch the waistband side seams. With right sides together, align the side seams of the waistband front (A) and waistband back (B) main fabric pieces. Stitch along the side seams.
Remember, you can use a serger or a zigzag or stretch stitch for seams. We’ll be demonstrating with a serger.
2) Stitch lining side seams. Repeat this to sew the side seams of your waistband lining.
Attach lining to waistband
1) Pin waistband to the lining. Place the waistband lining and waistband main fabric pieces with right sides together, aligning the notches and side seams. Pin.
Even though you trimmed the lining, you still want the raw edges to line up. The point is to make the lining slightly smaller than the outer fabric, not just for the lining to have a shorter seam allowance.
2) Stitch around the top. Stitch around the top edge of the waistband pieces.
As you stitch, align the seam allowances so that they face opposite directions. This will help to eliminate bulk at the seams.
3) Turn out. Turn the waistband right side out.
Your waistband is now ready to go!
In the next step tomorrow, we’ll be covering attaching the front placket if you are making version 2. After that, we’ll talk about sewing the kick pleat for version 3.
On Friday, we’ll finish the rest of the seams, hem, and final finishing. You’ll see what an incredibly quick make this is!
Errata note: There was a grading issue on some sizes of the waistband back piece that led to a small discrepancy in the waistband side seam for some sizes. If you are having an issue with this, you can download a new waistband front piece here, or just trim the waistband front to match the back.