1) Choose your size. Use the body measurements chart on
the back cover to determine your size. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size.
A note on making muslins: Muslins (test garments) are important for getting a perfect fit when you’re working with woven fabrics. With knits, they’re not of quite the same value because (1) knits are more forgiving with fit and (2) The fit will depend a lot on your particular fabric.
If you want to make a test garment, I recommend buying double the amount of your fabric and using that for your trial run.
Overall, fitting and adjusting as you go will be an easier method for fitting your knit garment.
1) Lay your fabric. Begin by folding your fabric in half lengthwise, with the right sides together and the selvages aligned. Place the fabric on your cutting table or mat.
2) Lay the pattern. Lay out the pattern pieces as shown in the cutting layout diagrams. Start by placing the pieces that go along the fold. Then lay out the other pieces, making sure the grainline arrow is parallel to the selvage. (Measure from each end of the arrow to the fold. Position is correct when distances are exactly the same.)
I always use pattern weights to hold the pattern in place. This causes less distorition than pinning your pattern to the fabric.
3) Transfer markings. Use your marking pen, pencil, or chalk to transfer the markings (such as circles, buttonholes, and fold lines) to the wrong side of the fabric. Mark the center front of pieces cut on the fold, as this will help you to align pieces accurately.
I like to use a tool called a screw punch to create holes in my pattern, so I can mark internal markings really easily.
Cutting with fabric shears
If you’ll be cutting your pattern out with shears, use these instructions. For a rotary cutter, see the next section below.
1) Trace outlines. Trace the outlines of your pattern pieces onto the fabric using your marking pen, pencil, or chalk.
2) Cut pieces. Remove the pattern pieces and cut each piece out of your fabric.
3) Clip notches. Place the pattern back on the fabric. Wherever you see notches in the pattern, clip into the seam allowance. This will help you align the edges of the pieces later. Because this pattern has small 3/8″ seam allowances, be sure to make your notches very shallow.
Cutting with a rotary cutter
To cut with a rotary cutter, you will need a cutter and a self-healing cutting mat.
1) Cut around pieces. Use your rotary cutter to cut around each pattern piece, cutting through both layers of fabric.
2) Clip notches. Place your pattern piece back on the fabric. Wherever you see notches in the pattern, clip into the seam allowance using your fabric shears. This will help you align the edges of the pieces later. Because this pattern has small 3/8″ seam allowances, be sure to make your notches very shallow.
Cut the waistband lining
1) Cut waistband lining. Cut the waistband lining from your lining fabric in the same way.
1) Label your pieces. For ease of use, label each pattern piece witht he name or letter of the pattern piece. This will help you differentiate pieces that look alike, such as the front and back waistband.
Now we’re ready to start sewing! Tune in tomorrow as we walk through creating the waistband.