Sewing the pockets

It’s time to make some pockets! This is really the last tricky thing you need to do for the pattern. And it’s not actually very tricky.

We’re going to be making pockets with the optional piping in this post. As usual, you can feel free to omit the piping if you like. Let’s get started!

1. Start by pinning the piping along the upper edge of the lower skirt side front piece. You can do this in the same way you did the piping for the neckline: mark the seamline (either with chalk or basting), and pin the piping with the stitches next to the cord aligned with the seamline. Make a little fold in the piping seam allowance towards the center, where there is that small dip.

2. Baste the piping to the piece. You can use a contrasting thread color if you like.

3. With right sides together, pin the under pocket to the upper skirt side front piece.

4. Sew these pieces together, finish the seam and press it towards the pocket.

5. With right sides together, pin the over pocket to the lower skirt side front. The piping should be sandwiched between these two layers.

6. Stitch these pieces together, stitching right over your contrasting basting stitches. Use a piping foot, or a zipper foot if you are using piping. When you reach the center dip, sink the needle down and life the presser foot. Pivot the fabric and place the presser foot back down. Sew to the end.

7. Finish this seam. As you can see, I decided to serge mine.

8. Clip to the stitching at the center. Take care not to clip through the stitches.

9. Clip the curves along the rest of the seam.

10. Turn the facing to the inside, and press this seam flat.

11. With right sides together, pin the under pocket to the over pocket.

12. Sew the pockets together, beginning and ending at the inner pocket seamline.

At this point, you can finish the round pocket edges (serge, pink, or another seam finish).

13. Lay the whole unit out flat, and pin at the side seams of the pocket.

14. Machine baste the side seams to hold the pockets in place.

And we’re done! Our front side panels of the skirt are now assembled, with the pockets held securely in place.

In our next installment on Tuesday 08/23, we’re going to do the final steps of assembling and finishing. But really, you’ve finished the hard parts already. Congrats!

The Rooibos Sewalong

  1. Announcing the Rooibos Sewalong! (42 Comments)
  2. Design details and inspiration (17 Comments)
  3. Choosing Fabric and Interfacing (20 Comments)
  4. My fabric choice (15 Comments)
  5. Making Your Muslin (19 Comments)
  6. Rooibos Full Bust Adjustment (17 Comments)
  7. Rooibos Small Bust Adjustment (11 Comments)
  8. Grading for larger hips (5 Comments)
  9. Curved seams and finishes (21 Comments)
  10. All-in-one facing and piping (15 Comments)
  11. Sewing the pockets (9 Comments)
  12. Finishing and Hemming (5 Comments)
  13. My completed dress! (29 Comments)
  14. Your Rooibos projects (5 Comments)

Comments

I was talking to my roommate last night about finishing pockets and then saw this!

How do you finish the round edges of the pockets? I don’t want to serge for fear I will chop the skirt seam, so I usually pink the edges after everything is sewn up. Could I serge the pocket edges before stitching them together?

Yes! Excellent point, I’ll add that step above.

I serged my pocket edges after stitching the round seam but before basting the edges to the side seams. It worked fine for me!

Would binding be an appropriate seam finish for Rooibos?

Do you mean binding the seam allowance? that could work if your fabric is stiff enough to hide the extra bulk. For example, if you were doing one in denim, it could work.

Nikki

I love the piping on the pockets. Would it look ok to just do piping on the pockets and not the bodice or should I keep it through out the dress?

I don’t see why not.

em

Doesn’t clipping into the serging make the overlock stitching unravel and kind of defeat the purpose?

Have you had this problem, em? I can’t say that I have.