Today, we’ll be sewing up our bust darts. If you’re making version 2 (long sleeves), we’ll also sew the shoulder pleats.
Shoulder pleats (version 2 only)
Fold the top pleat on one of the pleated bodice front (B) pieces in half along the fold line, wrong sides facing, matching the dashed lines on each side of the fold line. Pin.
Stitch along the dashed line on the right side of the pleated bodice front (B) piece.
Press the pleat down.
Edgestitch along the bottom edge of the pleat.
Repeat steps 1 – 4 for the remaining two pleats on the pleated bodice front (B) piece.
Repeat steps 1 – 5 for the second pleated bodice front (B).
Sew Bust Darts
Sew the bust dart on one of the bodice front (A) or pleated bodice front (B) pieces by bringing the dart legs together with right sides facing, and stitching from the edge towards the tip.
Tie the dart off at the tip by sewing just to the edge of your fabric, leaving long thread tails. Do not backstitch. Tie the tails together at the tip.
Repeat steps 1 – 2 for the dart on the second bodice front (A) or pleated bodice front (B) piece.
Press darts downward. If you have a tailor’s ham, this is a good time to use it. Place the ham beneath the dart, forming the tip around the curve. Press firmly. This helps mold the dart into shape.