In this post we will be covering general pattern adjustments that can be made to the garment before sewing a muslin. These adjustments include blending between sizes, lengthening, and shortening.
Though making flat pattern adjustments can improve the over-all fit of your garment, nothing can do the job quite like a sewing a muslin. If you want a predictable outcome when it comes to fit, make always make a muslin!
Bodies are diverse, and for this reason you may often find that you fall into a different size category in your waist than in you hips. Aster is drafted to be a relaxed cut, with little definition between the hip and waist line. This adjustment is ideal for people who find that their hip falls into a larger size than their waist. Luckily this is an easy adjustment we can make to our flat pattern.
1) Start by adjusting the front bodice. The waist of Aster is marked by a notch at the side seam. You can use this notch as a starting point when blending between sizes.
2) Determine the size you are blending to by referring back to the size chart. Use a hip curve to gently blend out to the new size line at the hips.
3) Repeat this process on the back bodice.
If you find that you are a larger size category in the waist, than in the hip, refer to the finished measurements for your size. The Aster is designed with ample ease, so you may find that the smaller size will still allow enough ease in the middle.
If you are particularly short waisted you will want to shorten your Aster.
1) To shorten, draw a line above and parallel to the lengthen/shorten line, the distance between these two lines should be the amount you would like to shorten.
2) Crease the lengthen/shorten line and fold it to your new line.
3) Tape and blend jagged edges.
4) Reposition the last 2 button placement marks so that they are 2 3.4″ apart, consistent with the rest of the pattern. Don’t worry if you end up loosing the final button.
Lengthening your Aster is just as easy.
1) To lengthen a pattern piece, cut along the lengthen/shorten lines.
2) On a separate piece of pattern paper draw two parallel lines. The distance between these two lines should be the amount you would like to lengthen. Draw a thirde line that is perpendicular to the previous lines this will act as a continuation of your grainline.
3) Align your slashed pattern pieces with your lengthening guide and grainline. Tape to secure. Blend jagged edges and trim.
4) Reposition the last 2 button placement marks so that they are 2 3.4″ apart, consistent with the rest of the pattern.
5) Again, remember to do the adjustments on all related pieces (ex, front AND back bodice).
Cutting and Marking
Once you have completed you muslin and/or alterations, it’s time to cut your fabric! Refer to the cutting layout for your size and view. Once your pieces are cut, transfer all marks to the fabric.
All marks should be mad on the wrong side of your fabric except for your button and buttonhole placement, which should be marked on the right side.
If you suspect you may need a full or small bust adjustment hold off on cutting. Bust adjustment tutorials are coming up on Wednesday.