Coat (v1): Installing the lining

Install Lining

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1. Turn the lower edge of the coat shell under 1/4″ and press to form a temporary narrow hem.

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2. Baste in place.

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3. With right sides together, stitch the body lining to the coat at the neckline using a 3/8″ seam allowance. The hood will be sandwiched between the coat and the body lining.

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4. Stitch the center front facing (E) to the shell down the front edge.

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5. When you reach 1″ from the bottom pivot and stitch across the facing.

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6. Clip the corner at the hem to reduce bulk.

Attach Sleeve Lining to Sleeve Shell

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1. To stitch the sleeve lining to the sleeve shell, fold a few inches of the sleeve lining back at the sleeve hem. This will form a cuff. With wrong sides of lining and shell facing out, slip a few inches of the bottom of the sleeve lining into the sleeve hem, making sure that the sleeve remains evenly cuffed.

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2. Align the hems of the sleeve shell and lining, with right sides together.

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3. Using a 1/4″ seam allowance, carefully stitch these two hems together. Repeat for the second sleeve shell and lining.

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4. From the lower part of the coat, reach between the two layers and turn the sleeves right side out. Because the lining was trimmed, the sleeve should form a 1″ cuff when the lining is pulled to the inside. Press the cuff.

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The Albion Sewalong

  1. Welcome to the Albion Sewalong & Contest (5 Comments)
  2. Gather fabric and supplies (49 Comments)
  3. How to fit and adjust your pattern (17 Comments)
  4. Adjusting for wide or narrow shoulders (5 Comments)
  5. Adjusting for arm or body length
  6. Adjustments for women: Giving waist definition (3 Comments)
  7. Adjustments for women: smaller arms (5 Comments)
  8. Adjustments for women: Full bust
  9. Cutting, Interlining, Interfacing, & Staystitching (8 Comments)
  10. Coat (v1): Creating patch pockets (2 Comments)
  11. Creating the yokes (1 Comment)
  12. In-seam pockets and side seams (10 Comments)
  13. Making the hood (2 Comments)
  14. Customization: drawstring hood (2 Comments)
  15. Creating sleeves (6 Comments)
  16. Coat (v1): Body and sleeve lining (4 Comments)
  17. Installing the center front facing (4 Comments)
  18. Customization: Adding a zipper (3 Comments)
  19. Customization: Add a drawstring waist (4 Comments)
  20. Coat (v1): Installing the lining (4 Comments)
  21. Finishing, hemming, and closures (5 Comments)
  22. Customization: Make your own toggles (3 Comments)
  23. How to enter your finished project into the Albion contest (25 Comments)
  24. Beautiful Albions and the winner of the Bernina 380! (26 Comments)

The Albion Companion

The Albion Companion offers in-depth, step by step instructions for making the Albion jacket or coat, illustrated with over 300 photos. Learn to make a classic flannel-lined duffle coat or lightweight unlined jacket for either men or women.Learn at your own pace, on your own time. This detailed ebook will show you every step of the process.

Order yours here

Comments

Debbie

Hello, I’m confused about attaching the lining to the shell at the neckline. All the pieces were staystitched at a scant 5/8,” but the neckline seam allowances are 3/8,” which wouldn’t conceal the staystitching, right? I’m unsure if I should stitch at 3/8″ or 5/8″. Thank you!

The staystitching should be just inside the seamline. So if the SA is 3/8″, staystitching should be a scant 3/8″. Hope that helps!

Debbie

Thank you! Just so you know, both the instructions and the sewalong say to staystitch just inside 5/8,” while the seam allowance is 3/8.”

Ooh, thanks, I’ll check that out!

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